WE TRANSFORM SPACES INTO STORIES IN THE OPEN AIR

It is the most common material in modern awnings and, in most cases, the most advisable. Aluminium does not rust, is lightweight, resistant and requires very little maintenance. It is the material we use across the IASO awning range, from premium models such as the SPICA awning.

Steel

It offers great structural resistance and is reserved for large-format or particularly exposed installations. In return, it is heavier and requires anti-corrosion treatment to withstand the elements.

How to choose the best material for your awning

To decide between the different types of awning materials, consider the environment and the use:

• Coastal area or strong sun: acrylic fabric and aluminium structure, for their resistance to UV and salinity.
• You need protection from rain: waterproof PVC fabric.
• Façades and heat control: microperforated screen fabric.
• Intensive hospitality use: reinforced aluminium and high-end technical fabrics.

Whatever the material, the service life of the awning also depends on its care and regular cleaning.

Frequently asked questions

What is the best material for an awning cover?

In most cases, solution-dyed acrylic fabric. It keeps its colour for years, resists UV very well and offers the best balance of quality, durability and price.

Which material best withstands wind?

Wind resistance depends more on the structure and the system (cassette, arms, anchors) than on the fabric. Quality aluminium, properly sized and correctly installed, is the basis of a wind-resistant awning.

Is polyester a bad choice for an awning?

It is not bad, but it is inferior to acrylic in colour durability against UV. It is valid for tight budgets or low-exposure uses; for a long-lasting installation, acrylic pays off.

Which material should I choose for rain protection?

A waterproof PVC fabric on an aluminium structure. It combines watertightness and resistance, ideal when the awning must also provide cover in light rain.

They feature adjustable aluminium louvres in the roof. By rotating them you regulate the entry of light and ventilation, and by closing them completely you get protection from the rain. They are the most complete and versatile option, ideal for anyone who wants to use the space all year round. Many models, such as the retractable bioclimatic pergola, can be automated with sun and rain sensors.

Tensioned fabric pergolas

They use a retractable textile roof that folds away or extends according to the shade you need. They bring a lighter, warmer aesthetic, integrate very well into design-led settings and usually involve a somewhat more contained investment than bioclimatic ones. You can see examples in our range of tensioned fabric pergolas.

Key factors for choosing a pergola

• Local climate: if it rains frequently or is very windy, prioritise a bioclimatic pergola with aluminium louvres.
• Area to cover: this determines the structure, the number of posts and the anchoring system.
• Use: a domestic weekend terrace is not the same as a restaurant terrace with daily turnover.
• Level of automation: motorisation, sensors and integrated lighting add comfort and also budget.
• Aesthetics and integration: the pergola should dialogue with the architecture of the space, not be added as a loose element.

Which pergola to choose according to use

For hospitality

In bars, restaurants and hotels, the bioclimatic pergola is almost always the best decision: it lets you open the terrace all year round, protects from sun and rain and conveys a premium image. Robust models such as the high-resistance bioclimatic pergola are designed for intensive use. Remember that, whatever the model, good pergola maintenance is key to preserving its performance.

For private homes

In a home, the choice depends on the balance between budget and functionality. If you want maximum comfort and protection from the rain, a bioclimatic one; if you prioritise design and a tighter investment, a tensioned fabric one such as the pergola with integrated lighting works very well.

Frequently asked questions

Which pergola should I choose if I want to use it all year round?

A bioclimatic pergola. Its adjustable louvres regulate sun and ventilation in summer and, when closed, protect from the rain in winter, letting you make the most of the space in any season.

Is a bioclimatic pergola or a tensioned fabric one better?

It depends on your priorities. The bioclimatic one is more versatile and protects from rain; the tensioned fabric one brings a warmer aesthetic and is usually more economical. Neither is better in absolute terms: what matters is that it fits your use.

What maintenance does a pergola need?

Periodic cleaning of louvres and gutters, inspection of the mechanisms and, on motorised models, an annual check of the motor and sensors. Correct maintenance considerably extends its service life.

Can I install a pergola without building work?

In many cases, yes: free-standing pergolas are anchored to the ground or the existing slab without major works. Feasibility depends on the area and the type of paving, something worth assessing with a technician.

Cassette models from our range of awnings for terraces also protect the fabric when retracted, extending its service life.

When to choose a pergola

The pergola is the right choice when you want to use the outdoor space all year round and do not depend on a wall to install it. It is ideal if:

• You need to cover a large area with no supporting façade (the centre of a garden, a restaurant terrace).
• You want to regulate light and ventilation with adjustable louvres.
• You also want protection from the rain.
• You value integrating lighting, heating or enclosures.

Bioclimatic pergolas allow exactly that: creating a comfortable microclimate by regulating sun and air according to the time of day.

Pergola or awning: quick comparison

• Protection: the awning protects from the sun; the pergola, from sun and rain.
• Installation: the awning needs a wall anchor; the pergola is free-standing.
• Use: the awning provides occasional shade; the pergola defines a permanent space.
• Investment: the awning is more economical; the pergola, higher, but it adds value to the space.
• Seasonality: the awning is more seasonal; the pergola, for all year round.

How to decide between an awning or a pergola

Before deciding between a pergola or an awning, ask yourself three questions: do I have a wall to anchor to or do I need an independent structure?, do I want occasional shade or to extend the usable space?, and do I need protection only from the sun or also from the rain? The answer usually tips the balance clearly. If you still have doubts, at IASO we offer advisory for outdoor projects where we assess your specific case.

Frequently asked questions

Which is cheaper, a pergola or an awning?

The awning usually has a lower initial investment. The pergola is more costly, but as a permanent structure that expands the usable space (especially in hospitality) its medium-term return is high.

Does a pergola protect from rain while an awning does not?

Generally, yes. Bioclimatic pergolas with closed louvres or tensioned fabric offer protection from the rain. Most awnings protect from the sun but are not designed for heavy or persistent rain.

Can I install an awning if I don't have a wall?

Traditional awnings need to be anchored to a façade or structure. If you don't have a wall, the natural solution is a free-standing pergola.

What should I choose for a bar or restaurant terrace?

It depends on the surface area and the use. For terraces you want to use all year round, the bioclimatic pergola is the most profitable option; for urban façades with occasional shade, the cassette awning is more agile.

The most frequent mistake is tensioning only one arm, which leaves the fabric out of square and overloads one side. Another common error is forcing the screws to the limit: the springs have a limited travel and overtightening can damage the mechanism. It is also unwise to tension in strong wind or to leave the awning retracted while wet, something we also cover across our range of awnings and their maintenance.

When to call a professional

If the fabric keeps giving after the adjustment, if the arms make noise or fail to close, or if you notice play in the anchors, the problem is not tension but the mechanism. On motorised or large-format awnings such as the cassette models, adjustment requires specific tools. In those cases, the safest option is a technical service: you can contact our team for an inspection.

Frequently asked questions about how to tension a folding arm awning

How often should a folding arm awning be tensioned?

As a reference, it is worth checking the tension once a year, at the start of the season. In windy areas or with intensive use (hospitality), the ideal is to check it twice a year.

Can I tension the awning myself?

Yes, on manual or semi-automatic awnings with an accessible adjustment screw. An Allen key and equal adjustment on both arms is all you need. On motorised or large systems, a technical service is preferable.

Why does water collect on my awning?

Because the arms have lost their drop and the fabric has become too horizontal. By tensioning and restoring the drainage incline, water runs off the edge again instead of pooling.

Can tensioning the awning damage the fabric?

No, if done gradually. The risk appears when the screws are forced all at once or one arm is left far more tensioned than the other, creating tension points that fatigue the fabric.

Knowing how to clean a parasol properly is the difference between it lasting 10 years or more than 25. A parasol accumulates dust, pollen, leaves, pollution, salinity and moisture, and each material requires a different method. In this guide we explain step by step how to clean a parasol according to its type and material, which products to use, which to avoid, and how often to do it to preserve both its look and its performance.

Why it's important to clean a parasol regularly

A parasol is exposed to the elements 365 days a year. Dust, pollen, leaf debris, bird droppings, urban pollution particles and, in coastal areas, salinity settle on its surface. If a parasol isn't cleaned regularly, this buildup:

• Attacks the surface finish: it stains, dulls and, on some materials, can even corrode the piece.
• Reduces solar performance: accumulated dust lowers reflective and filtering capacity.
• Blocks the mechanisms: on adjustable louvers and bioclimatic pergolas, dirt causes jamming and misalignment.
• Shortens the lifespan: the difference between correct and incorrect maintenance can amount to more than 10 years of durability.

How often should a parasol be cleaned

The cleaning frequency for a parasol depends on the material, the environment (urban, coastal, rural) and the level of exposure. As a general rule, light cleaning (cloth and water) should be done once a month in spring and summer, especially if there is pollen.

A full clean should be carried out twice a year, in spring (before the heat) and autumn (before winter). You can also do extra cleanings after storms with strong wind, dust haze episodes, snowfall, or if there are nearby trees dropping leaves and resin. In coastal areas it is recommended to increase frequency by 50% due to ambient salinity.

Materials and products needed to clean a parasol

Before starting, prepare the following items:

• A bucket of lukewarm water (not hot).
• Neutral soap or mild dish soap, never abrasive.
• Soft sponge or microfibre cloth (avoid metal scourers).
• Soft-bristle brush for joints and areas with embedded dirt.
• Low-pressure hose for rinsing. Never use a pressure washer.
• Stable ladder and gloves to work safely.
• Dry cloth to prevent limescale marks when drying.

How to clean an aluminium parasol step by step

Aluminium (lacquered or anodised) is the most common material in modern parasols. It's durable, but its finish is easily damaged by acidic or abrasive products. Follow these steps:

1. Remove dry dust. Run a microfibre cloth or a duster over it before applying water. This prevents dust from scratching the surface once wet.
2. Prepare the solution. Lukewarm water with a few drops of neutral soap or dish soap. No ammonia, bleach or industrial degreasers.
3. Clean with a soft sponge. Rub with straight back-and-forth movements, never circular: circular movements leave uneven marks on aluminium.
4. Rinse with clean water. Low-pressure hose or bucket. Make sure to remove all the soap.
5. Dry immediately. With a dry cloth to avoid limescale marks and drip traces.
6. Stubborn stains. For hard-to-remove dirt, mix white vinegar diluted to 50% with water and apply with a soft cloth. Leave for 5 minutes and rinse thoroughly.

How to clean a wooden parasol

Wood (natural or treated) is more delicate and requires gentler cleaning with water, because moisture can lift varnish or rot the fibre:

1. Dry brushing. Use a soft-bristle brush always following the direction of the grain.
2. Damp cloth, not soaked. Lukewarm water with neutral soap or a soap specific to outdoor wood. The cloth should be wrung out as much as possible.
3. Minimal rinsing. Another clean, damp cloth to remove the soap. Don't hose down the wood.
4. Air drying. Let it dry completely before applying any treatment.
5. Protective treatment. Every 2-3 years, apply an oil or outdoor-specific stain. This repels water and UV rays and extends the parasol's lifespan.

If mould stains appear, gently dry-sand the area with fine-grit sandpaper and reapply the protective treatment. For technical wood (WPC), neutral soap and water is enough: no oiling required.

How to clean a fabric or screen parasol

Fabric parasols (awnings, screens, technical canvas) accumulate dust and, over time, green stains (algae) or reddish stains (rust from metal elements):

1. Dry vacuuming. Run a soft-bristle brush or a vacuum with a soft nozzle over it to remove dust and pollen.
2. Mild solution. Lukewarm water with neutral soap or a soap specific to technical fabrics. Avoid bleach, never use chlorine-based cleaners: they yellow and degrade the fibres.
3. Apply with a soft brush. Rub gently on the outer face. Focus on stained areas without pressing too hard.
4. Rinse with a low-pressure hose. Make sure to remove all the soap; residue creates white stains when it dries.
5. Dry completely before retracting. If you store a wet awning or screen in its housing, mould will appear within days.

Common mistakes when cleaning a parasol

When cleaning a parasol there are a number of mistakes that come up again and again and are worth knowing so you can avoid them. The most serious, and the number one cause of breakdowns in bioclimatic pergolas, is using a high-pressure washer: it damages seals, motors and finishes, often irreversibly. Along the same lines, applying acidic products such as hydrochloric acid solutions, industrial descalers or chlorine-based cleaners damages both aluminium and technical fabrics, altering the lacquer and weakening the fibres.

Another common error is resorting to metal scourers or hard-bristle brushes, which irreversibly scratch the lacquer finish on aluminium and treated wood, leaving marks that can no longer be hidden. In the specific case of aluminium, rubbing with circular movements creates uneven marks that, although not visible up close, become noticeable under certain light; the correct approach is always to work with straight back-and-forth movements, in a single direction.

The mistakes don't end with the cleaning process itself. Retracting a fabric parasol while it's still wet causes mould to appear in less than a week, so it's worth making sure the fabric is completely dry before folding it or storing it in its housing. It's also very common not to check the gutters on bioclimatic pergolas: blockage from leaves, pollen or moss is invisible until the first leak appears, and by then the damage is usually done. Finally, greasing motors and mechanisms unnecessarily is counterproductive: excess lubricant attracts dust, forms an abrasive paste and, far from improving performance, makes it worse. The rule is simple: lubricate only where and when the manufacturer indicates.

Frequently asked questions about how to clean a parasol

Can a parasol be cleaned with a high-pressure washer?

No. A high-pressure washer is not recommended for any type of parasol: it damages finishes, seals, motors and orientation mechanisms. The recommended option is a low-to-medium pressure hose or a bucket of water.

What products should not be used to clean a parasol?

You should avoid: bleach, hydrochloric acid solutions, ammonia, industrial degreasers, organic solvents, metal scourers and hard brushes. All of these attack the finishes (lacquer, anodised coating, varnish, technical fabrics) and reduce the parasol's lifespan.

How do you clean an aluminium parasol without scratching it?

To clean an aluminium parasol safely, first remove dry dust with a microfibre cloth, then apply lukewarm water with neutral soap using a soft sponge, and always rub with straight back-and-forth movements, never circular. Rinse and dry with a clean cloth.

Do I need a professional to clean the parasol?

For routine cleaning, no: with simple materials any owner can do it. It is worth hiring a professional for the annual technical inspection on motorised systems (motor, sensors, lubrication, adjustments), and in any case of breakdown, play in the mechanism, or unusual noise.